It is too much to hope that the STORY OF FORT MYERS BEACH will be entirely accurate. Memories are faulty, and oft times "authorities"' disagree with each other. But before more of the old records are lost, and our pioneers are beyond questioning, we have made an attempt to gather what facts we could and, interweaving them with local lore, put them into print.

Estero Island and its sister island, San Carlos, make up the community of Fort Myers Beach. It is a tiny bit of an Island, seven miles long and in no place as much as a mile wide. From the north-west point to the south-east tip, a gleaming white sand beach fronts the Gulf of Mexico.
Shrieking gulls and terns ride the winds, sandpipers twinkle-toe after the receding wavelets seeking tiny bits of luscious sea foods; stately herons, roseate spoonbille and a dozen other shore and water birds abound in the mangroves of Estero Bay. Porpoises rise and dip and roll as they play off-shore. The mighty tarpon whips the water and flashes his silver sides as he rolls and tumbles until the very ocean "boils." On the ocean floor are sand dollars, star fish and pricklv sea urchins. Palms, the trade-mark of the tropics, bougainvilleas, flaming royal poncianas, hibiscus and alamanda keep the island a-bloom the year around. Sea grapes hang in great clusters among huge golden-green leaves, and the tree (or sea) hibiscus glows with blossoms opening in the early morning, changing during the day from golden yellow to orange, then to russet and red until late in the evening they drop their now maroon flowers ready to start another golden day tomorrow.
A quiet town of friendly citizens, artists, fishermen and winter residents, with a healthy quota of welcome tourists, make up the island population.

That the Caloosas inhabited many of the Florida west coast islands is evidenced by the shell mounds left by them. These mounds are the kitchen rniddens or perhaps the ceremonial grounds of the natives whose main source of food was the sea. Conch, clam, scallop and oyster shells left from thousands and thousands of seafood dinners rise high.

Of the three such mounds originally on Estero Island, only one remains today. This one on the Bay at the end of Connecticut Street, known, naturally enough, as "The Shell Mound," is the highest point on the Island. Little remains of one left on the Bay near Egret Street, as most of it was hauled away to make the first roads in the McPhie Park subdivision. The third one, farther down the Bay, almost opposite the Caribbean Motel, was used as foundation material for Estero Boulevard from Flamingo Street to the south end of the Island.

Several shell mounds still exist on Dog Key and on Mound Key. The latter key, now part of the Koreshan State Park, has the largest ones in this area.

No real exploration of the Gulf coast was made for many years after America was discovered, although a few Spanish vessels had been wrecked along the shores after being blown off course from Cuba and South America by storms and hurricanes. Survivors often were made captive by the Indians, and one of these. taken prisoner in 1545, later wrote the history of his seventeen years spent with the Caloosas. Although the exact spot of his captivity is not known, there is no doubt that much of the time was spent in this vicinity. The memoirs of this man, HERNANDO FONTANEDA, are considered one of the best accounts of the early days in this region.

As far as is known, JUAN PONCE de LEON and his men were the first to see Florida, and they gave it its name. They landed near St. Augustine on the east coast on April 2, 1513. On May 24, 1513, they made a landing on the west coast not far from here. perhaps at Punta Razza, where Ponce de Leon careened his ship to clean the bottom before returning to Puerto Rico. Eight years elapsed before he came to Florida again. Although it is not known just where he made his landing in 1521, still in search of the Fountain of Youth, it is believed to have been somewhere between Venice and Punta Rassa.

The Caloosas, fed up with Spaniards, bitterly resisted the landing and n the battle which followed, DeLeon was struck by an arrow and badly wounded. The Spaniards took to their ship and sailed for Cuba where their leader died.

Next to come into the area was DE NARVAEZ in 1528. Then came HERNANDO DE SOTO in 1539, both seeking gold. There is no accurate account of where these Spaniards landed, but since no gold was found, neither stayed long.

In 1566 a Spaniard namedMENENDEZ arrived in these waters and immediately locked horns with CARLOS, the Chief of the Caloosas. Before the year was up, the newcomers treacherously killed Carlos and twenty of his leading men. It was from the Indian Chief in this event that we get the name Carlos, for which are named Carlos Bay, Carlos Pass. San Carlos Island, and others. Matanzas Pass undoubtedly derives its name from the Spanish word meaning "slaughter," commemorating the murder of Chief Carlos and his followers near this point.

These events happened some 400 years ago and accounts of that time were vague and badly kept, so it would hardly be right to say they happened on this island, but they did occur in this neighborhood and do fit in with our early history.

For many years it was thought that DeSoto landed somewhere around the Tampa Bay area, but recent translations of old Spanish and Portuguese manuscripts by Rolfe Schell, lead him to conclude that Estero Island or the immediate vicinity could well have been the location of the landing rather than further north.

As far as is known, the Sam Ellis family was the first white family to stay on Estero Island. Mr. and Mrs. Ellis and her son George Underhill lived on the Shell Mound on the Bay at Connecticut for several years during the middle seventies. However, instead of settling here, they went to Sanibel where they homesteaded a tract of land at the head of Tarpon Bay. This first George was the father of George Underhill who returned to the Beach as a young man and has lived and reared his family here. At the time the Ellises lived on Connecticut, there was one family each on Estero Island, Black Island, Mound Key and Dog Key.

The names of many old timers are remembered as "'Homesteaders" but for one reason or another most of them failed to "prore up" on the land. Some became discouraged and left, some sold out their rights to the claim and several were "discouraged" when their property and buildings were repeatedly damaged or destroyed under mysterious circumstances. The United States Department of the Interior has provided the author with photostatic copies of the patents of those who actually acquired land on Estero Island through Homesteading.

The first bomestead in the area was that of Frank M. Johnson and included all of Mound Key. The patent was issued by President Benjamin Harrison in November 1891. The first to file for homestead rights on Estero Island was Robert B. Gilbert who was granted his patent in May of 1898 during the presidency of William McKinley. The grant comprised 172 acres starting at a point near Bay Street and, on the Gulfside, ran to a point near Bayland Road. The area took in some very choice property in the central part of the Island and included "Shell Mound" which was the Gilbert homesite.

Dr. James M. Bratt of New York state filed for the second homestead, but before he proved his claim he died, and in August of 1899, patent for the land. about 150 acres, was granted to Ambrose M. McGregor for whom McGregor Boulevard was named. On this piece of land, Dr. Bratt attempted to raise tomatoes. He had prospects of a wonderful first crop but the night before harvesting was to begin a hard freeze ruined the field. Only a few bushels were salvaged and this ended commercial farming on Estero Island. In 1899 a freeze hit Florida which sent the thermometer down to two below zero at Tallahassee, killing the tender trees which previous freezes had missed. It was so cold in south Florida during the 1899 freeze that thousands of chilled migratory birds fell out of the sky and froze to death on the ground. This area, at present the most populated of any on the Island, extended from Crescent Street to a point just east of Tropical Shores Road and later became the T.P. Hill Subdivision.

The only homesteader whose name is still in use on the Island was granted the third patent. In November 1899, Hugh McPhie, a Scotsman proved up on an irregular shaped piece of land, about 112 acres, bounded roughly by Flamingo Street and Fairview Isles. The old McPhie homesite was situated n a beautiful coconut grove just south of Rancho DelMar. The old house and its flowing well remained until it was destroyed by the storm of 1947. The lovely site remained a favorite picnic spot for many years before it was closed off because of misuse by the public.
It was not until June 1906, that George R. McAuley was issued a patent on seventy-two acres just south and east of Dr. Bratt's, starting near Tropical Shores, it ran almost to the Beach fire station where it joined the Gilbert homestead. On this tract stand our school and public library. Theodore Roosevelt was president when this patent was granted.

A year later, June 1907, Hugh McPhie proved up his second claim. Later this was made into a sub-division and called McPhie Park. The tract ran from the Gulf near Aberdeen Street to Avenida Pescadora, thence to the end of Seminole Way and back to the Gulf on Gulf Drive. Located in this section was our early school house, later converted into what is now our Community House. The patent for this sixty-five acre piece was the first issued by the government in which blank spaces for names and dates were filled in by typewriter. Patents prior to this one were filled in by hand writing.

Unclaimed by other homesteaders was a triangular piece of land with a wide stretch of gulffront starting about Aberdeen Street and running north to a point near the Commodore Hotel. This was proved up by Albert A. Austin in 1914 under President Woodrow Wilson. Dakota Street was about the center of the tract comprising a little over twenty-four acres. Leroy P. Lamoreaux, the last of the homesteaders, commented. "Al was an Indiana glassblower who came down here to.join the Koreshan Unity, and judging by some of the things he told me, I think getting away from his wife was an incentive." Lamoreaux's brother later bought this claim from Austin.
Lamoreaux came to the Koreshans at Estero as a lad of fourteen in 1894. He filed claim to about 65 acres between the two McPhie tracts and proved it up in 1913, The Catholic Church of The Ascension is located on this land which was sold to them by Lamoreaux.

Hugh McPhie probably realized more from his properties than any of the others for, with the exception of Lamoreaux, he held onto them longer. It is said that during the boom of the 1920's he was offered half a million for his holdings but he turned it down. Late in life, when be subdivided McPhie Park, a good many lots were sold at a moderate price, and a few years before he died he sold some forty lots in the Park and nearly all his original homestead for forty thousand dollars.

It was not until 1916 that another subdivision was put on the market when T. P. Hill subdivided a large tract starting at Crescent Street, running south-east and ending just south of the present Gulf Echo Motel. Beachside lots were of normal size but those on the north side were extra large and ran to the Bay; many were "approximately nine acres or ten acres." Brush and palmettoes were so thick that no attempt was made at an accurate survey. In those days no engineer was about to tramp through the mangroves for the sake of an acre or two of "cheap" land.

After Hill subdivided, it was some three years before more lots were put on the market. E. E. Damkohler and C. S. Fickland established Seagrape Subdivision on Mango and Avocado Streets in 1919. Avocado was renamed Chapel Street in 1952.

In 1921 Tom Phillips put Eucalyptus Park, part of the original Case subdivision, on the market. With the exception of those along the highway, the plat consisted of twenty-foot lots. No one seems to know why such narrow plots were designed except to be able to advertise a "lot" at a very low price--the same gimmick is still being used in this county. In April of 1921, Crescent Park Addition, bounded by Crescent Street and Primo Drive, also was platted by Tom Phillips. Here the First Canal. back of Crescent Street, was built by Phillips in 1924. In 1934 a large number of canal lots, each twenty-five feet wide, were sold for $35 apiece.

In 1924 Donald Foley put in Highland Park and specified that no house should be built there for less than $4000. He was too optimistic, for it was over thirty years before ANY house was built. Hercules Park was put on the market this same year but there is no record of the owner's name on the original subdivision plat--perhaps he wanted to remain anonymous.

The following year, 1925, was the year of the big boom and anything having a Florida tag on it could be sold whether the buyer saw it or not. It mattered not whether it was on top of the water or underneath. The old plat books still show a subdivision on an island across the Bay from the present water tower, which is under water at every spring tide and is completely covered with mangroves, yet some one paid big money, sight unseen,f or these lots which were shown only on some "developer's" map.

In January of this year. W. W. Watson put his Watson's Subdivision (Delmar Road) on the market. Although he did not dignify the street with a name at that time and his lots were only twenty-five feet wide and eighty feet deep, he did put in a forty-foot road and provided a place at the Bay for a turn-around. This was more than the developer did on Miramar in May of the same year. He left only eighteen feet for a roadway and utilities, and there was no way to turn at the Bay. In those days no one cared whether you could get out if they could just get you in. Have times changed much?

In June, Gulf Heights, a long way down the Island, with the beach itself providing the only road, was established by "The Hendry Brothers." Four months later the Fort Myers Beach Development Company, whose members we could not ascertain, opened Venetian Gardens and named, not only their roads, but also their canals. On the plat the road is named Parlemo. Now it is known as Palermo and the question of which is right remains unsolved. The two canals, locally known as the Second and the Third canals. were called the Canal Grande for the shorter one and the Rio Del Lido for the longer. Grandiose, indeed.

It was in October of that year that a Mr. Spalding. whose first name has been lost to history, locally at least, established Gulf View Plaza with Coconut as his street. He must have taken his cue from the Mirimar plat, for he, too, failed to make provision for a way to turn around at the Bay.

The arch at the north end of the swing bridge was built by Tom Phillips when he promoted much of San Carlos Island as a subdivision in 1924. This was before the road now in use was built and cars still came down the Bunche Beach road and then along the beach. A wooden bridge with a fifty cent toll ran from the San Carlos Marina site to about where Snug Harbor is today, to take travelers on to Estero Island if they wished to go. This bridge went out in a hurricane and later the present swing bridge, almost at the same location, replaced it.

Sam Headly, who has lived at the Beach for many years had at that time a fleet of Model-T taxis which brought hundreds of land seekers down from Fort Myers for the weekly fish fries and to view the Phillips subdivision A million dollar hotel was started on San Carlos Drive on the bay. The old foundations are still there but the hotel was never completed.

The first road from Fort Myers to the Beach was devious. Travelers came out McGregor Boulevard from the city, continuing toward Punta Rassa to the road which leads to the present Bunche Beach. From that point one traveled along the shore line, across the Nigger Hole, over a small wooden bridge, and on to Matanzas Pass with the road coming in near the location of the present swing bridge.

The old road was replaced by the present route in 1926 and 1927, and the following year the concrete "swing bridge" was installed. This bridge, which was moved from an east coast location, was sufficient for the time being but has been a source of irritation for at least fifteen years.
The only concrete road at Fort Myers Beach was built at that time. This bit of paving, starting just north of the Arch and running to the county pier, is now thirty-five years old and in just as good condition as when first constructed. It makes one pause and wonder if the "economy" of constructing our usual black-top roads is far outweighed by the expense of repairing and rebuilding them.

Prior to the coming of the shrimp fleet the turn bridge was hand operated, one man opening it by a sweep in the center--a hard, slow process. With the influx of boats, necessitating opening the bridge a dozen times a day, the procedure was too laborious so two men were put on the sweep. In 1950 the bridge was reconstructed to open and close by electricity. Unsuitable for this kind of machinery, the worn cogs and other works of the bridge (a "second hand" bridge In the first place,) now old and temperamental, began to be a source of concern. What if the bridge failed to open during a storm period, a fire or a medical emergency? Agitation for a new bridge with adequate machinery and power became second only to the weather as a subject of conversation. "A new bridge for safety sake" became the slogan of the day.

Meetings of citizens with officials brought proposals and counter proposals. As early as 1960 these conferences were being held. Finally, feeling they were getting no where with county or state officials, the local committee said, "Give us a bridge, any bridge anywhere, but get us a second bridgel"'

The first of the wells that supplied more than one house was built by Harry Laycock not long after the Case Subdivision was started in 1911. It stood southeast of the present telephone building and had a small elevated tank which was filled by a windmill-powered pump. Eventually it furnished some twenty-five houses with water.

Hugh McPhie had a fine flowing well on his property in the Coconut Grove, and a good one was located next to the Gulf Shore Inn. Pipelines from this well supplied water to areas as far away as homes in Venetian Gardens and Palermo Circle. Other wells around the island were developed as the town built up.

Simmons Richardson, father of Mrs. Gene Washburn, was the first to recognize the fact that a growing community needs a satisfactory water system. He bought out the Laycock system in 1922, as well as several of the other small ones, hooked some together, put down new and better wells, erected three or four larger tanks on towers, and provided the island with very satisfactory service.

After the death of Mr. Richardson in 1950 the system was operated by the family for a couple of years, then a new company formed by Gene Washburn, John Waltman and George Allen took over. In 1953 they developed an entirely new system with new wells, an efficient treatment plant and new pipelines and tower.

This in turn was sold in 1965 to Florida Cities Water Company which also bought the small system which supplied the Laguna Shores Area.

Prior to this, in 1910, a bad storm raked the southwest Florida coast and created havoc from Key West north. Few people today remember that hurricane but George Underhill of the Beach, relates that one of his earliest recollections was of his father nailing boards over the windows even as the water was coming in all around the building.

In 1944 and in 1947 bad blows struck here putting water over the islands, tearing out docks and piers, setting houses askew and doing a great deal of damaging to trees and shrubs. Many Australian pines were blown down all over the county by both these storms. These shallow rooted trees topple so easily and are so dangerous in high winds that many cities have passed an ordinance against planting them.

In 1960, Hurricane Donna hit the Beach with winds estimated at 140 miles an hour. Many houses,, built in the 50's by northern residents or builders who did not realize what a hurricane can do, took a bad beating. Donna was probably one of the worst, dollar wise, that Florida has ever seen.

People who have never been through a hurricane sometimes express the desire to ride one out -- to see what it's like. Don't do it! It would scare the hell out of you and you would stand a good chance of getting in b-a-a-d trouble.

In the Bay at the south end of the Island near Big Carlos Pass, piling on which houses had been built can still be seen. Fishermen lived in these and in one near Black Island. Children from these homes attended school on Mound Key where at that time thrived a settlement of sixty or seventy people. Supplies were brought in and fish and vegetables taken off by "run boats" from the Punta Gorda Fish Company which had collection points all throughout this part of the west coast.
Black Island was the home of fishermen, also, and as a young man, the popular fishing guide, Buck Fernandez, and his brother lived there for a number of years. One of their houses was burned out by a competitor and another was swept away in a storm after which the brothers moved to safer ground.

The discovery of "pink gold" in the nearby Dry Tortugas in 1950 brought a great influx of fishing boats, people, and industry. Due to its accessibility by land and water, Fort Myers Beach became one of the largest shrimp ports in the world--perhaps the largest. After the beds at Tortugas became "fished out" and less profitable, the boats branched out to fish the Campeche area, and while many of the craft are away for weeks or even months at a time, some 300 trawlers make this home port and bring in over three and a half million pounds of shrimp each year.

A few years ago a rough but productive shrimp bed was discovered lying just off shore in the Gulf not far from the South end of Sanibel. Much of the fine shrimp eaten locally are taken from these beds and at night the lights of the trawlers may be seen bobbing about in the Gulf.

Many of the young-adults of today earned their first spending money building shipping boxes, icing, weighing, shucking or packing shrimp. Once two plants were on Estero Island; the Columbia Fish House, south of the bridge, was destroyed by fire and Hurricane Donna took McDowell Packing House in 1960. Due to zoning restrictions, neither could be rebuilt.

The tiny clam known as the Coquina is our most common shellfish, and from it sprang one of the Island's few pre-war industries. A Coquina broth factory was established by Luke Gates in a building at Connecticut and Estero originally erected as a service building for a proposed casino which did not materialize. Workers gathered the little shells on the beach, took them to the factory where they were processed and the broth canned. When World War II erupted and the packers were unable to obtain cans, the project was discontinued and never resumed. People who remember the delicate oyster-like broth say it was a fine product, and Gates, the owner, claims it was the best thing ever invented for a pick-me-up after a rough night.

Sports fishing has been one of the primary attractions for tourists with shelling on the beach and swimming close seconds. The snook in Estero Bay are as big and sassy as you can find anywhere. Sporty reds, trout, ladyfish and jacks are 'most any place you want to wet a hook. In the Gulf, mackerel abound. Kingfish, bonito, grouper and tarpon are here in season. The canny local fisherman knows where to go for precious pompano. At any time of the year some kind of fish are here for the catching.

Local marinas have boats and motors for rent and sale. Headboats carrying up to fifty people are available for a day's fishing on the Gulf at reasonable prices. Charter boats are more expensive, though the cost is not prohibitive, and the fisherman may return with a better catch.
We believe that our Estero Bay, with its maze of islands and water, is the most beautiful part of Florida.

There were no motels but several cottage courts flourished. Doc Wilson's San Carlos Lodge (now Adenours) was on San Carlos Island while Silver Sands, Side O'Sea and the Beachcomber were on Estero. There may have been another one or two but not many.

Incidentally, accommodations owners were caught in the rent freeze of 1942 and summer rates were in effect all year around. Although this was a hardship during the winter months, it was offset somewhat by the fact that there were no vacancies in the off season. With the military installations nearby, priority was given to service personnel and their families and travelers were very fortunate if they could find a place to stay in housekeeping units.

In those war years people owning trailers were unable to get gas enough to come this far south so the hotels and courts took care of the few visitors who came. The people who did find our islands were so charmed by the place that they returned and brought friends and relatives with them.

Many of these declded to stay and make their homes here. This has made for a slow but steady growth both in homes and accommodations. Now our Islands have hotels,, motels, cottage courts and rental cottages, ranging from the picturesque to the lavish, which can take care of some three thousand visitors. Mid-winter finds us "bustin' at the seams" and every year more people are discovering that, with our almost total airconditioning, Florida summer vacations can be very pleasant, too.

It is difficult to pin point the location of early buildings for comparative newcomers because landmarks keep changing. Old timers still talk about "Nettie's Place," the "old barber shop," and Denman's store, all of which have been gone for a number of years.

Nettie's was the first restaurant on the Beach and it stood directly on the Gulf at about the end of Palermo Drive. Shellers, bathers and beachcombers in general stopped barefooted and bathing-suited for a bit of Italian food and a cold beer at Nettie's. The site of the building was on a tract of land owned by the "five Pavese brothers" each of whom had a small cottage in a cluster of buildings. Rocco Pavese operated a barber shop in Fort Myers but each Sunday he came down to the Beach and, in a tiny wooden structure, cut hair for the early residents who, even then, believed in the slogan, "save a trip to town." This shop and a similar one next to it served as the starting point for several businesses, one of which originally housed Harriet's Treasure Chest. When the Hurricane of 1947 damaged Nettie's Place, and the small tropical storm of '52 demolished it, Nettie's daughter Rose and her husband Eddie Pacelli built the Surf Club on the same property, but they erected t safely on the Boulevard.

At First and Crescent Streets Frank Green, father of Charlie and Dave, built a small grocery store. The 1926 hurricane put Frank out of merchandising but the store was rebuilt by the Denmans who operated it for many years. Because of age and ill health, the Denmans gave up the store and sold it, along with the adjoining properties, to D.W. Ireland who erected the modern grocery store near the old store site, and put up the gas station on the corner. Now a very modern motel also graces the plot.

Another of the older structures is the Pelican Building. C. L. Yent, in '33, built a wooden store on the site and operated a small grocery for a few years. Yent traded the property to Harry Steel in 1938, and Steel built the present stone building and installed a very up-to-date grocery and market. Subsequently it has housed a photo shop and a bakery as well as serving as post office for several years. The Cotton Shop now occupies the building.

In the trade for the store, Yent was given Pearl Street (both sides from Boulevard to Bay), and the wood from the old building. From this developed the earliest cottages of the Beachcomber Court.
The first hotel on the Island was built in 1912 by Dr. and Mrs. William Winkler and was called the Winkler Hotel until it was sold to H. A. (Bert) Waite in 1930 and the name changed to The Beach Hotel. Dr. Winkler realized long before most people that the warmth and the salt air was definitely curative, so his original idea was to promote a health resort on his seventy-one acre tract which reached from Gulf to Bay. Later this acreage was subdivided into the Winkler Addition.
As there was neither road nor bridge to the Beach at the time, all materials for the hotel came in by boat and barge. In fact, most of the supplies for the whole Island were delivered by a Koreshan boat which made regular trips from Fort Myers to Estero. The Hotel guests were brought in from Punta Rassa by boat by Joe Williams who maintained this service for the Doctor. At the time the Hotel was constructed, very few people lived on the Island--Hugh McPhie, the Sanders family at the boat yard, and the H. C. Case family on Shell Mound, perhaps were all.

One of the oldest buildings on the Beach is the Pelican Hotel which was originally a honeymoon houseboat owned by Mrs. Anna Turner. "Ma" Turner moved the boat on to the land at the present site in 1933 and since then, many additions and improvements have been made. Mrs. Gene Bartholomew bought it from Mrs. Turner and operated it until the summer of 1955 at which time Don Zimmer and Garrett Reasoner purchased the building and "'Attic" and Esther Reasoner assumed management.

Free-will offerings were taken to pay the rent on a building, the Mayhew Page cottage on the Gulf side of Estero Boulevard on what is now Cottage Street, a block south of the Chapel by the Sea. Miss Lois Alexander (now Mrs. James Congdon) was hired as the teacher for $80 a month, and eleven first grade children, five second graders and seven third graders enrolled.

The mothers of the pupils saw to it that the children got to school on time and regularly, that they had hot lunches on cold days and that there was not too much monkey business. They had worked too hard for the school to allow for much beyond an education.

Within the year, the student body had outgrown the cottage and parents went out and raised money for a new school. Two and one half acres of land were given by a Mr. Pence, Fort Myers people donated much material, and labor was provided by the W.P.A. The County School Board contributed the furnishings but the mothers painted the building and bought a piano. Miss Ardys Klenzing was hired as a second teacher.

In 1942 Mrs. Alvin Bassett, who Is "Mrs. Beach Public School," came as a teacher, and Mrs. Rodger Shawcross was added to the staff. Later Mrs. Bassett was assigned to other schools in the county but in 1955 she returned here as principal where she remained until her retirement in 1964.
In 1949, when the present school was built, the School Board gave the original building to become a community hall. The Fort Myers Beach

In the spring of 1955, when the Woman's Club was considering a choice of projects for the coming year, Mrs. J. C. Healy presented a letter to the club outlining the feasibility of a library for the Beach. The suggestion was adopted and a committee comprised of Mrs. Healy, Mrs. Roland Hyatt, Jr., Mrs. John Taylor, Mrs. William Guess and Mrs. Harry Quig was formed to explore the situation and report back to the club. Mrs. Healy was appointed chairman of ways and means, and later became the first president of the board. Many hours of travel and research were put in by library boosters before it was deemed feasible to go ahead.

By August 1955, the name "The Beach Public Library" had been adopted, the former McGee Real Estate office selected as the Library's first home, and the library committee was made the first board of directors. Each organization on the Beach was invited to name one of its members to serve on the board and Mrs. Harry Quig, who had a background of library experience. was appointed librarian. She served until January of the following year at which time Mrs. James Miller took her place. From the beginning, the library was set up according to state library requirements as well as those of the American Library Association.

On September 25, the Library held open house and began circulating books. In November, request was made for Incorporation and in December incorporation papers were received. In June 1956 the original membership charge was dropped and the Fort Myers Beach Public Library became the first free public library in Lee County.

For the next few years life for the friends of the library was a swirl of benefits: bake sales, card parties, Bulletin subscription bonuses, luncheons, lectures and book reviews, all so imbued with enthusiasm that the public considered it a privilege to attend and leave their money.

What a tremendous job it was, however, for those who did the work -- but they, too, loved it.
In the summer of 1958 the idea of holding a benefit auction was born and the labor pains accompanying it were terrific, but on March 21, 1959, the elephants -- big ones, little ones, white ones and ancient ones, were trotted out from where they had been gathering all winter in the old Beach Theater, now San Carlos Marina storage building, and with Alfred Nutgrass to cry the sale, Aida Bee's library auction went over with a literal bang. A whole chapter could be written about this auction and the ones which have followed each year, and about the bone-tired happy people who make it successful, even the school children who tugged and carried heavy objects and ran errands all day long knowing that the Library was geared especially toward helping them. When the nickels, dimes and dollars were counted, they totaled $1357.24.

A few weeks later, four lots were purchased on Bay Street and the board was off again! Plans were being made for a new library building.

For the next two years newspaper headings read, "Rotary Club gives toward new Library," "Building Fund Benefits from Lions Barbecue," "B.I.A. Donates $100 to Building Fund," "Millikin Shell Collection given to Library," "Lions Club Pledges Money for Airconditioning," and "School Children Contribute to Library Fund." There were many others which reflected the whole-hearted support of every facet of the Beach. Then on May 31 the headline read, "Ground Is Broken for the New Beach Library Designed by Charles Morton." Individuals contributed many, many hours of hard manual labor and business firms, both here and from Fort Myers, gave materials at cost or entirely without charge. It was truly a community effort. On July 28, 1961, the dream had.come true -- and the Library held its informal opening.

Under the guidance of Mrs. James Miller, Librarian, and her efficient board, the library showed a healthy growth plant-wise and public-wise, never wealthy but having adequate funds to operate. In the spring of 1965 a move got underway to combine all efforts in the area and form a county-wide library system. It had a familiar ring to those of us who remembered the fight in 1957 to "include us out" of the county-wide mosquito district. We had a library and, as one newspaper editorial pointed out, "We had a book," and the promises of state and county assistance were too nebulous for our library board to wax enthusiastic. In fact, local voices, raised clear and loud resulted in the formation of a Library Tax District similar to that of our Fire and Mosquito Control districts, and provided a one-half mill levy. When the measure came up for voting, with a total of 979 freeholders in the district, 710 of them came out to vote, with 678 of them in favor of the separate tax district and only 32 opposed.

It was with regret that the Library Board accepted the resignation of Lou Miller in May 1965 after almost ten years as volunteer head librarian. Without doubt she has contributed more hours to the library than any one person, and the hours of her husband, Treasurer James Miller, would not total many less. Too many people have had big shares in creating this library to dare to mention any of them, even Aida (Mrs. Olen) Bee.

Upon the resignation of Mrs Miller, and with the prospect of financial assistance from the new tax district, it was possible to hire a full-time librarian and in June Miss Emily Spencer, a professional librarian with thiry years experience, was chosen. At this time our library contains more than 10,500 well-screened books, a wide variety of periodicals, special reading rooms for children and is, perhaps, the finest young peoples' reference library in this area.

Five attempts have ben made to incorporate Fort Myers Beach. The first one, in the mid '40's, failed by just six or seven votes. A second try later in the '40's lost by a larger number, but not overwhelmingly so. Then an attempt in November, 1953 was so poorly handled that the proponents literally turned tail and ran even before the referendum date.

An entirely new charter was drawn up in 1957 which stipulated that not more than two mills could be assessed without special referendum, and incorporation came up for another vote. Again it was defeated, this time by a margin of 88 votes. The same charter was used in the winter of 1960 and lost by 50 votes. Feeling ran strong, naturally, and the voting was heavy. Those who worked for incorporation were tired of government by remote control and felt we were ready for home rule. They thought a two mill levy would not be a burden to anyone. The opposition feared that once enacted, incorporation would mean a continual raise in taxes. Now, whenever county officials over-rule the local majority, the incorporation rumble begins again.

Before the referendum in 1953, the county started, for the first time, a zoning program in unincorporated areas, and the Beach was the first to form a district. Two local men, Arthur Snodgrass and Barrett Brown, were the first to represent the Beach on the county zoning board. An over-all plan was laid out at this time, areas were zoned sensibly and to the satiasfaction of most residents. After several years, this set-up was changed and zoning is now under more direct county rule and is administered from Fort Myers. There is still a local committee to advise the county board on Beach matters.

Over the years, zoning has been adhered to willingly by most Beach people. Most of the friction has been caused by absentee property owners who want zone changes that may be good for themselves but not for the islands as a whole. Perhaps the manner of handling zoning is due for a change, soon.

However, late in 1960, the application for a bulkhead line in Estero Bay, involving an immense amount of fill from outside that line, aroused the people as never before. Fearing that seawalling the north side of the bay, dredging the bay bottom and dumping fill on some of the small islands, would destroy the fish and bird breeding areas and ruin local fishing, sportsmen acted promptly.

To protest this destruction, a hastily formed Conservation Association quickly enrolled nearly four thousand members from all over Lee County. Petitions of this group were presented to the County Commission who responded by setting the bulkhead line at one foot from the shore line in accordance with the wishes of the association. Ace Lee of Fort Myers Beach was president the first year; since then the association has been ably directed by Bill Mellor of Fort Myers, who has spend unlimited time and money to promote conservation interests. Mellor, formerly of the Beach, has had a great deal of help from Roland and Libby Roberts, as well as from many other people.

The controversy over the bulkhead line was the catalyst, perhaps, that gave us the Koreshan State Park. Some ten or twelve years ago, Miss Hedwig Michel, president of the Koreshan Unity, hoping to save the old landmarks and records of the Koreshans for future generations, offered much of the Unity"s holdings to the state. At that time the park board director showed no interest in the offer and nothing was done about It.

This was not known by the people of Fort Myers Beach and, during the agitation to preserve our natural resources, the Bulletin came out with the idea of turning all of the Estero Bay waters and islands into a state park. This proposition received favorable reception from park officials as it seemed to entail merely transfer of state owned property from one department to another, but no action was taken at that time. It did, however, revive the interest of the park board in this area and in the earlier offer of Miss Michel, and negotiations late in 1961 resulted in the state accepting a gift of 290 acres from the Koreshan Unity. This included 100 acres in Estero, the site of the old Koreshan hall and museum and art buildings which will be the park headquarters, seventy acres on both sides of the mouth of the Estero River and 120 acres of Mound Key.

The State recently announced that Estero Bay would become a fish and wildlife management area as a pilot program which could be duplicated in other parts of the state. It is said that under this plan there will be more flexibility for public use than if the area were administered solely as a part of the Koreshan State Park.

Mound Key is, without question, the most interesting of all the islands in this area being covered with shell mounds, believed to have been erected by the Caloosa Indian tribe, and used for their ceremonial rites. Rolfe Schell, local author, has gone into the story of this Island quite thoroughly in his booklet, "1000 years on Mound Key."

The founder of the Koreshan Unity was Dr. Cyrus Teed who established the headquarters in Estero and largely colonized Mound Key, Estero and Black Islands, starting in 1894.
Dr. Teed died in 1908 and was buried on Estero Island in a concrete tomb near the west end of the Big Carlos Pass bridge. In 1921 a hurricane destroyed the tomb and changed the shape of that end of the Island.

In the summer of 1949 the two islands were formed into a mosquito control district -- the vote was 155 to 7-- and Bill Tooley, Jewell Ursoleo and Travis Cowart were elected directors. There had been some attempt at control before this using funds raised by subscription but now the money needed would be produced from taxes and effective plans could be made. The two mill tax brought in about $4,500 the first year. This board spent many hours consulting with experts, selecting equipment and materials and fighting criticism of the program. Now, with a higher millage, we have a budget of well over $60,000 per year and the majority of islanders believe it is money well spent. The board still has to spend hours and days studying new chemicals and new methods--and fighting criticism of the program.

When the state matching funds became available, to be used for permanent improvements, a dragline was purchased to be used for ditching and thoroughly draining the low spots around the islands.

In the spring of 1957 a county-wide mosquito control act was drawn up to be presented to the State Legislature proposing that all monies and equipment within the county be placed under county control for use all over the county. Since Fort Myers Beach already had the money and paid-for equipment to do a good job locally, our residents were loath to take a chance on having that equipment thrown into a county pool and used in far away areas, and having additional taxes, besides, to pay for necessary county equipment. We asked to be "included out" of the act. While our voices were hardly heard county-wise, they did reach Key West and Senator Bill Neblett flew up to the Beach where he was pursuaded that our stand was right and just, and he insisted that the bill be introduced excluding the Beach from the county-wide system.

It proved to have been a wise decision. A few years later our district was enlarged to take in a small area on the mainland which includes Siesta Isles and Tip Top Isles.

The first civic organization was the FORT MYERS BEACH PROPERTY OWNERS' ASSOCIATION started in 1930 "to advance the needs of a growing community and to help beautify public and private grounds." One of the primary undertakings was the planting of six hundred coconut palms. These were put along Estero Boulevard from San Carlos Boulevard south to Connecticut Avenue which was as far as the road went at that time.

The Lee County Bank had a nursery then, and offered to supply the trees for 75¢ each, but the Association shopped around and bought them from another source for 25¢, plus another five cents for the planting. Two years later E.E. Damkohler sold the Association a large number of six-foot palms for 75¢ and agreed to deliver and plant them for that price. Many property owners took advantage of these offers and fine specimens, planted at that time, still beautify our roadways and home grounds.

The minutes of the Property Owners' Association, of which Bert Waite was the first president, show that in 1931 there were sixty improved properties on Estero Island. Things were moving right along in the early '30's and the Association was boosting all the way.

Through their efforts. the first voting precinct was established in 1932. That same year, a good deal of favorable publicity came this way when Santa arrived at the Beach in whiskers and bathing suit, via the Gulf by boat. It was the first of the much-publicized Christmas parties which have become one of our traditional events. Another important event of 1932 was the establishrnent of a non-sectarian Sunday School.

The Association sparked the move to get the first electricity brought in from Fort Myers in 1932. Prior to this the Beach Hotel and a few other places had their own light plants run by gasoline engines. Telegraph service was established in 1933.

It was that same year that the Property Owners cited the need for a garbage disposal system and for mosquito control, and in 1935 there was agreement within the Association that the Island should incorporate to take care of sanitation, insect control, and to promote roads. Also, they stated, incorporation would insure an orderly growth to the community. This matter did not come up for voting, however, until 1945 at which time 67 voted for incorporation and 75 against it.
Since that time the question of incorporation has been brought to vote four more times and each time has lost by a very narrow margin. Old timers who have sweated out these campaigns are inclined to take a dim view of some newcomers when they ask, "Why hasn't anything ever been done about incorporating the Beach so we can control our own affairs."

Lee County was created in 1887 and Fort Myers was incorporated In 1885 with only 45 freeholders turning out to vote. An odd fact is that in 1965, the Beach is ten times larger than Fort Myers was at that time, and has not yet been able to incorporate.

The year 1940 marked the first time Fort Myers Beach was classified separately in the United States census. That year there were 473 people listed as living here. A gain of 175 more residents were shown five years later. The 1950 census showed only 711 permanent residents, but there were more living quarters than that. A fact which showed that the community was growing in popularity as a resort. In 1960 the census showed a population of 2,500, a gain of 250%, in ten years--400%, in twenty!

For a number of years the Beach had the only major fireworks show in the county and plans were made and moneys contributed largely by business people, well in advance of the big day. An expert, licensed pyrotechnition, assisted by experienced local men, is in charge and from the pier where the action takes place, for a mile each way, throngs line the beach to watch the displays. Many take to the water and watch from boats in the Gulf. During the day the county park is jammed with picnickers, special events are scheduled for the daylight hours--boat races, water ski exhibitions. But the fireworks is always the grand finale.

The BIG FOURTH was started years ago when a number of local families pooled their individual fireworks to make a better display. The "shooting" was usually held at the Beach Hotel which was the central location and had the best facilities. The idea snowballed until the whole community became involved and today a special"Fireworks committee"carries on from year to year.

A second weekly made its appearance in the mid '50's but expired before many months. The community could not support two papers.

In 1952 the Beach Business Association started a search for a physician who would locate here, and several came for interviews. Dr. Maurice Borow, formerly of New Jersey, finally decided to come. Early in 1953 he received his state license and opened his office above Garl's Drug store. A few years later Dr. James Schutt moved here from Indiana and built the Schutt Building in which he opened his office.

Attorney L.T. Ahrenholz came from the East Coast and opened an office in Bigelow Center in 1953 later moving into the new Professional Building. When Attorney Kjell Pedersen first came to the Beach he was associated with Mr. Ahrenholz but In 1960 he opened his own office in the
in the Foster Building.

Our first dentist set up a practice in Laguna Shores in 1955 but difficulties soon developed and the office was closed until 1959 when Dr. William Weit came to make his home here and took over the practice. The next year he moved his office into the Professional Building.

In 1960 Dr. Ronald Lea received his degree in optometry and established his office adjacent to that of Dr. Weit.

The authors are fully aware that there may be variances in what two or more old timers believe to be authentic. Perhaps through our efforts more and better records will come to light.
We wish to express our heartfelt appreciation to the many, many people who have visited with us about early days, and to those who have loaned us pictures to use in the book. The maps used in preparing our center pages were furnished by Garl's Drug Store.

Members of the churches and civic groups were most cooperative in providing us with the data about their organizations.